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Editor’s Be aware: This story was initially revealed in October 2022. It was up to date and republished in March 2025 to mark the launch of CNN’s Chance Encounters podcast
Rachel Décoste landed in West Africa’s Republic of Benin in August 2018, anticipating an essential journey of self-discovery, however not predicting the extent to which the journey would change her life.
On her first day exploring Benin, Rachel requested a passerby for instructions. Two weeks later, Rachel and the stranger had been engaged. Inside six months, they had been married.
Rachel grew up in Ottawa, Canada, the daughter of Haitian dad and mom who’d immigrated to Canada within the late Nineteen Sixties. As an grownup, Rachel relocated to Washington DC for faculty, later working for a bipartisan tech program related to the US Congress.
Rachel cherished this job, she cherished the range of Washington and cherished working in public service. When her US visa was up for renewal, Rachel, then in her early 40s, figured she’d work remotely for a number of months earlier than returning to DC.
However slightly than working from Canada, she hatched a plan to arrange her desk additional afield.
Earlier that 12 months, Rachel had submitted her DNA to an internet ancestry web site. Rachel had lengthy identified she was the descendent of enslaved Africans, however till she acquired the outcomes, she hadn’t identified the place her forebears had lived. Now, she had a listing of nations the place she had roots: Senegal, Ivory Coast, Togo, Ghana and Benin.
“DNA exams for a descendant of enslaved Africans has very deep significance for us,” Rachel tells CNN Travel. “Although it’s not a exact science, if you get the map of the place your ancestors got here from, it’s an emotional journey.”
Chance Encounters
“I’ll take a chance, hop on the back of his motorcycle.”
When Rachel Décoste traveled to West Africa’s Republic of Benin in 2018, she was anticipating a life-changing journey. Then she jumped on the again of Benin native Honoré Orogbo’s motorcycle and the journey modified her life in additional methods than she ever might have imagined.
Learn Rachel & Honoré’s story on CNN.com
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Mar 17, 2025 • 23 min
Rachel arrived in Benin in the direction of the top of her 5 month distant working journey. She’d already visited the opposite nations on her listing, and her African journey was shaping as much as be a rare journey of self-discovery. Nonetheless, Rachel didn’t know what to anticipate from Benin.
“Truthfully, I don’t know if I might discover Benin Republic on a map earlier than this,” she says.
She booked a room in a mattress and breakfast within the port metropolis of Cotonou, planning to remain there for 2 weeks – working from the B&B and exploring the nation in her spare time.
Following a few days settling in, Rachel ventured out for the primary time. She deliberate to go to Ouidah, as soon as probably the most lively slave buying and selling ports in Africa. She anticipated this is able to be a shifting and thought-provoking expertise.
“I’m certain that certainly one of my ancestors handed by there, simply due to my DNA take a look at,” says Rachel.
Exiting her room, Rachel searched round for the supervisor of her mattress and breakfast – she was on the lookout for steerage on how finest to journey to Ouidah.
“She’s nowhere to be discovered. After which I search for the safety guard, and the safety guard is on break.”
Rachel figured her subsequent finest wager was asking a passerby outdoors, so she opened the gates and glanced round.
The primary individual she noticed was a person about to get on a motorbike, parked simply outdoors.
Rachel greeted the stranger in French – as a French Canadian, French is her first language and it’s additionally the official language of Benin – and politely requested him easy methods to get to Ouidah.
“You need to go to a sure intersection downtown, the place all of the bush taxis are,” defined the stranger. “You discover the taxi going to your vacation spot, you pay on your seat, and then you definately’ll get there.”
He began passing on instructions to the intersection, however then, realizing they had been a bit sophisticated, modified his tune.
“If you’d like. I can convey you there, it’s about 10 minutes away,” he steered, gesturing to his bike.
It was about 9 a.m. Rachel was cautious of trusting somebody she didn’t know, however she determined she was unlikely to return to hurt in broad daylight. She agreed.
“I take an opportunity, hop on the again of his motorbike, no helmet,” she remembers.
The motorbike-riding stranger was Honoré Orogbo, a single father and enterprise proprietor in his thirties who’d lived in Cotonou all his life and simply occurred to be passing by that morning.
When Rachel opened the mattress and breakfast door, Honoré had simply completed consuming some breakfast he’d grabbed from a close-by road kiosk.
From the surface, Rachel’s lodging wasn’t clearly a B&B. Honoré says he assumed she was the proprietor of the home. It was solely when she requested for instructions that Honoré realized Rachel was a customer.
When Rachel and Honoré arrived on the taxi rank in Cotonou metropolis middle, they realized the one heading to Ouidah was fairly empty. Honoré defined it might be a while earlier than it departed – the motive force wouldn’t go away till the taxi was full.
Rachel was disheartened. She didn’t have time to attend round – she wished to spend the entire day in Ouidah with out feeling rushed, and to securely return to Cotonou earlier than sunset.
Sensing her disappointment, Honoré got here up with a suggestion. He had a pal in Ouidah he’d been hoping to go to – whereas he hadn’t been planning to go that day, he might, he had a time off.
“I’m like ‘Cool. I’ll pay for gasoline. Let’s go,’” remembers Rachel.
Simply over an hour later, they arrived in Ouidah.
“He reveals me easy methods to get again – the place the bush taxis are that I can get again that afternoon – and he reveals me the place the Slave Museum is. And I’m like, ‘Okay, good to go. Thanks, sir,’” remembers Rachel.
However earlier than they had been as a consequence of go their separate methods, Rachel requested Honoré if he wished to get brunch. She wished a chunk to eat earlier than she began her tour – and lengthening the invite to Honoré felt just like the well mannered alternative, he’d gone out of his method to assist her, in spite of everything.
Honoré agreed, touched by the gesture. The 2 sat all the way down to eat.
Rachel was conscious that she was a girl touring alone, and whereas Honoré had been nothing however well mannered and respectful, he was nonetheless a stranger, so she informed him she was married.
She additionally didn’t share particulars of her job, or her life within the US. However she did clarify how she hoped to journey round Benin over the approaching days. She requested Honoré if he had any associates or contacts who labored as chauffeurs or tour guides, and who may be excited by escorting her round over the subsequent couple of days. She figured that may be simpler than counting on taxis.
Honoré contacted a tour information pal, however he was absolutely booked
“So I mentioned, ‘Effectively, how about you? Are you able to be my escort? You helped me out this morning, can I simply pay you to do this for 3 days?’” remembers Rachel.
“No, I’m not a I’m not a tour information,” mentioned Honoré. “I don’t know my nation’s historical past by coronary heart, and that’s not what I do.”
Rachel backtracked. She didn’t actually need a tour information – there could be specialists in any respect the historic websites she deliberate to go to – she simply wanted a trip.
After a little bit of forwards and backwards, Honoré agreed to drive Rachel.
“When she insisted, I mentioned ‘Why not?’” Honoré remembers immediately.
He wished to assist Rachel, Honoré says. She appeared like a “good individual,” primarily based on the way in which she’d approached him, the way in which she’d requested him questions and the way in which she’d invited him to brunch.
The 2 agreed Honoré would drive Rachel round for the subsequent few days, beginning that day in Ouidah, and Rachel would pay him for his providers.
For the remainder of the week, Honoré took Rachel to Benin’s most essential websites.
Touring Benin was a strong expertise for Rachel. She says visiting the slave fort, inside Ouidah’s Museum of Historical past, “is a pilgrimage that each afro-descendant ought to go to to remind us of the cruelty that our ancestors survived.”
“I didn’t know this earlier than going there in individual, but when Las Vegas was taking bets on the survival of enslaved Africans, the percentages of my being alive immediately would have been slim to none,” says Rachel. “I’m a strolling, speaking miracle. I’m the ‘one %.’ I owe it to those that didn’t make it to reside my finest life.”
Whereas touring round Benin, Rachel and Honoré talked. Whereas Rachel nonetheless didn’t disclose many particulars about her private circumstances, however she discovered herself opening as much as Honoré about her ideas and emotions. Honoré opened up in flip.
“First conversations had been about studying about myself, my household, my state of affairs, who I’m, who I actually am,” he says.
“We had been very open and really candid, as a result of we had been strangers and we’ll by no means see one another once more,” remembers Rachel.
She remembers being touched when Honoré defined that he didn’t have a brand new mannequin of motorbike as a result of he put all his cash in the direction of his son’s schooling.
“He says ‘I’d slightly have my child have these alternatives than drive a flowery motorbike.’ And I assumed, ‘Wow, these are the values of my dad and mom.’ I noticed myself in these values,” says Rachel.
In certainly one of their many conversations, Honoré talked about his brother was a tailor. On their fourth day collectively, Honoré took Rachel to a market to assist her purchase cloth that his brother might make right into a costume.
Rachel was overwhelmed by the selection – a lot in order that she requested Honoré to choose his favorites. He opted for 2 items of colourful, brilliant Ankara cloth. The third possibility was a white, grey, lace type, referred to as lessi. Rachel cherished it, and figured the ensuing costume might be “acceptable for a baptism or some type of big day.”
In certainly one of their many conversations driving to Benin landmarks, Honoré talked about to Rachel that he would often journey to Lomé, the capital of the neighboring nation of Togo, when he and his associates wished an evening out.
Rachel was intrigued.
“I can’t assure that I’ll ever come again right here. It is a as soon as in a lifetime journey the place I’m getting paid whereas I’m working in another country. I need to benefit from each alternative,” she remembers pondering.
“So I mentioned, ‘Effectively, I’ve to return to work this week. However subsequent weekend, if you happen to’re keen, I might get two resort rooms and we might go to Togo collectively.”
The next weekend, Honoré took Rachel to a poetry slam night time in Lomé, adopted by a bar with reside music. They stayed out all night time.
“We’re dancing. It’s simply pure pleasure,” says Rachel.
It was round this time that Rachel began to really feel issues shift. She felt comfy round Honoré in a method she’d by no means felt earlier than.
“We get alongside nice. He laughs at my jokes,” she remembers pondering. “I had a little bit of a meltdown a pair instances – which I’m not pleased with – the place he didn’t freak out, as a result of often offended Black girls scare individuals. However he took all of it in his stride.”
Rachel even briefly met Honoré’s son.
She described the state of affairs in an e mail to certainly one of her shut associates again in Ottawa.
“I believe I believe this individual ought to be my husband. However am I loopy? I’ve identified this man for every week. Is that silly? Inform me if I’m loopy,” she wrote.
Her pal wrote again: “Rachel, you aren’t a silly individual. You’ve logic. You’re a good choose of character. If he’s the one, seize him.”
For Honoré, the journey to Togo was a turning level too.
“I believe it’s that night time that the lightning struck,” he says. “It was not lightning but it surely was a sense of affection. I believe that’s the place the sensation of affection began.”
Rachel solely had yet another week in Benin earlier than she was set to return to North America. She determined she had no time to waste.
“I informed him that I actually wasn’t married. And he was very completely satisfied to listen to that. And we acquired collectively,” she says.
“I used to be type of shocked,” says Honoré now. “I assumed a girl like that may in all probability have a husband.”
“Subsequent day I noticed her otherwise,” he provides. “Not like a vacationer however my soulmate. That’s how the connection began. Step-by-step.”
For the rest of Rachel’s time in Benin, Rachel and Honoré spent as a lot time collectively as they may.
On the night of Rachel’s departure, Honoré remembers sitting along with her on a seaside. He was having fun with the second, but in addition contemplating Rachel’s impending return to Canada, and what it meant for his or her burgeoning romance.
“We had been dealing with the ocean. In my head, I used to be pondering ‘the previous two weeks that I’ve spent with you, I’ve no regrets. We had a good time collectively. I used to be actually completely satisfied to satisfy you.’”
The 2 talked in regards to the future, and if and the way they may make a protracted distance relationship work. They realized they had been each equally dedicated, and they also determined to get engaged, and that Honoré would relocate to North America.
It was an enormous determination. They’d solely identified each other for a few weeks. And for Honoré, emigrating had by no means been a aim. It will be an enormous change for his son. However Honoré says he determined to “comply with my instincts, to comply with my coronary heart.”
In the meantime, Rachel stop her life in DC, and went again to Canada. Rachel says her associates had been shocked, however supportive and completely satisfied when she informed them in regards to the whirlwind romance. Her dad and mom had been extra skeptical, she says. However they got here spherical after they met Honoré, and noticed how in love he was with their daughter.
Rachel returned to Benin six months later, in January 2019, for her marriage ceremony to Honoré. She wore the costume created from the white lace cloth Honoré had picked for her available in the market the summer time earlier than. It felt like destiny.
“You possibly can’t make this up,” says Rachel immediately, smiling.
In the meantime, the couple deliberate a Canadian marriage ceremony celebration for the next 12 months, navigating Honoré and his son’s immigration journey within the meantime.
“I took the time throughout the separation to begin making ready myself mentally and psychologically for an enormous transfer,” remembers Honoré. “I had to consider the large life change that was going to be forward of me, the cultural variations. I do know individuals who went to the Americas and it wasn’t essentially straightforward.”
Honoré additionally ready his baby for the transfer.
“I defined to him that, ‘My son, we’ll go to a unique nation and we’ll begin over collectively. With time, you should have new associates, you should have new cousins. You’ll have every part you want for. every part that you’ve got right here you should have over there, in time.”
Honoré and his son arrived in Canada in the course of winter.
“It was actually actually actually chilly,” he remembers. “I simply didn’t perceive how chilly it might be outdoors. As a result of the chilly of Africa is a complete totally different kettle of fish, than the chilly in Canada.”
Nonetheless, as soon as Honoré was kitted out with Canada-appropriate boots, coat and mittens, he began adapting to life in a brand new nation.
Rachel and Honoré say they had been over the moon to be collectively. The months aside ready for Honoré’s visa approval had been lengthy.
Honoré’s son settled in in a short time, and Rachel tailored to changing into his stepmother, a job she says she loves.
“I’m embracing the problem and the thrill of motherhood,” she says now.
“It’s not straightforward if you’ve been single since ceaselessly to regulate to having to share your life. However he’s a superb child.”
Right now, Honoré and Rachel reside in Ottawa. Rachel works as a variety and inclusion professional, whereas Honoré is finding out.
Rachel additionally recounted her experiences touring Africa in 2018, together with assembly Honoré, in an audiobook referred to as “Year of Return: a Black Woman’s African Homecoming.”
Rachel is now engaged on a memoir, which she describes as an “exploration of self and ancestry,” which she hopes might be launched by 2026.
Rachel and Honoré are additionally having fun with mentioning their son collectively, and run a enterprise promoting heat, Canada-winter-appropriate pajamas with African prints, referred to as Woke Apparel.
The pandemic put a cease to their huge Canadian marriage ceremony celebration plans, however they loved a small ceremony in summer time 2020.
Reflecting on their journey collectively, Honoré says their story makes him take into account that “typically you shouldn’t drive destiny.”
He sees assembly Rachel as “future” however considers shifting internationally to be along with her as proof of the significance of trusting your intestine.
“Simply comply with your coronary heart,” he says. “Comply with your coronary heart with reckless abandon.”
As for Rachel, she says their love story is a reminder to her that “it’s by no means too late.”
“You’re not too previous to simply journey alone by your self, in a rustic that you just don’t know, the place you don’t know anyone. You’re by no means too previous to search out love. You’re by no means too previous to turn out to be a mom.
There isn’t any expiration date on alternative. And seize life by each arms. If I can do it. You possibly can.”
