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On a sunny Friday morning in late September, about 200 collectors, sellers and watch world hangers-on rode the elevators up—approach up—to Aspire, the private events space on the 102^nd floor of One World Commerce Heart in Decrease Manhattan, for a four-hour brunch the place meals—the menu included a spinach and mushroom quiche adopted by plates of hen and waffles—was completely irrelevant. (So, for that matter, was the nearly-360-degree view, which stretched from the Brooklyn Bridge, previous Woman Liberty, throughout New Jersey and again round to higher Manhattan.)

That’s as a result of all eyes had been on the watches—some $20 million in timepieces displayed across the room, however mainly at a protracted central desk the place piles of Rolex Mil-Subs, diamond-set Patek Philippe Nautiluses, and yellow gold Cartiers mingled with far rarer and extra esoteric wristwatches in a horological orgy of really jaw-dropping proportions.

“All of the occasions I’ve been to, I’ve by no means seen this many watches on a desk directly,” the collector Jason Gong, founding father of Complecto, instructed Robb Report. “By no means thoughts the worth. After which the homeowners simply type of rise up and stroll away and wander. It speaks to the extent of belief within the room. Everybody has such reverence for the watches, and so they actually do deal with them with such care.”

Welcome to Rolliefest, the super-secret, invite-only, biennial watch occasion that celebrated its third version final week with a collection of gatherings which have been described because the watch world’s equal to the Tremendous Bowl. Based in 2019 by Geoff Hess, a classic watch collector and public sale home veteran who now serves as international head of watches at Sotheby’s in New York, the fest, which this 12 months value $1,500 per attendee, has grown in fame and measurement since its first version.

“We began with 110 folks in 2019,” Hess stated. “The following Rolliefest, in 2023, was 175 folks. This time was 210. And based mostly on the variety of messages I’ve, it may have been 410, which I don’t essentially need. However I’ve actually loved watching folks gravitate to it. And the essence of it, once more, is that it exhibits that watches inform time, however what they actually do is join folks.

“It’s why individuals are not judged by the worth of their assortment right here,” he added. “They’re judged by their character and the tales that the watches inform. There are large watch occasions everywhere in the world—Watches and Wonders, what have you ever—however there aren’t a lot of significant watch occasions which can be for the collector. There’s no model behind this. That is actually simply collectors coming collectively to share their ardour.”

The festivities kicked off Thursday night time with a gala dinner on the Metropolitan Museum of Artwork’s Temple of Dendur gallery, the place the traditional Nubian temple, a present to america from Egypt, has been housed since President Lyndon B. Johnson awarded it to the museum in 1967. Diners loved autumn chicory salad and seared filet mignon within the comfortable glow of the lights illuminating the temple’s Aeolian sandstone partitions and snapped wrist pictures in opposition to the backdrop of the reflecting pool, meant to evoke the West Financial institution of the Nile.

For the Rolliefest finale, Hess and his crew of organizers organized a farewell cocktail occasion within the winter backyard of the brand new personal residences on the Waldorf Astoria, contemporary off an almost-eight-year, multibillion greenback restoration.

The guts and soul of the occasion, nevertheless, was the watch sharing luncheon, the place “completely all manufacturers” had been welcome, as specified within the invitation. Collector Phil Toledano, co-founder of the boutique watch model Toledano & Chan, was impressed by the mania he noticed amongst Rolliefesters. “Principally, what occurs while you get this many watch folks collectively is it’s like everyone seems to be 5 years previous and so they’re opening their presents at Christmas,” he stated. “And it’s only a frenzy to see stuff, to deal with it. It’s unalloyed enthusiasm and pleasure.”

At one level throughout the brunch, Gary Shteyngart, the creator and watch collector, wandered over to a desk the place collector Grady Seale, who’d flown in for the occasion from the San Francisco Bay Space, was exhibiting six timepieces, together with a skeletonized Kari Voutilainen mannequin, a spherical, ultra-slim gold Cartier from the Nineteen Seventies, a Patek Philippe Ellipse pocket watch, and a Kind 4A mannequin by the Japanese watchmaker Naoya Hida. Shteyngart instantly gravitated to the Hida.

“I like classic, however this to me is like an elevation of classic for up to date instances,” he instructed Seale.

His remark underscored the big variety of timepieces, and timepiece lovers, at Rolliefest. Whereas many had been classic collectors drawn to items boasting extraordinary provenance, there have been additionally loads of indie followers toting watches by the likes of De Bethune, F.P. Journe and Roger Smith. It was the sheer quantity and breadth of wristwatches—in addition to the simple glamour of the venues—that struck first-time attendee James Lamdin, founding father of Analog:Shift.

“It’s extra grand than I anticipated it to be,” he stated. “$1,500 a ticket—it’s straightforward to balk at that, however when you concentrate on the meals, the places, the swag, the entry. Hear, all of these things prices cash, however you don’t must spend cash to take pleasure in watches. You don’t must spend cash to work together with different folks within the watch business.”

Whereas that’s definitely true, there’s no denying that Rolliefest represents the ne plus extremely of watch meetups. And this 12 months, even collectors nostalgic for the early days of the passion, earlier than social media and funding watches entered the image, stated the vibe felt good.

“I’ve this sense of group that I haven’t felt because the early 2000s,” the collector and supplier Kevin O’ Dell stated. “Issues felt extra magical within the early 2000s from a group side. However I’m feeling that feeling once more. There was one thing completely different about Geneva Watch Days this 12 months—the sense that there have been lots of people there that had been real, that had been there for the correct causes—and Rolliefest was a continuation of that feeling.”

The one query that continues to be: How will Hess prime himself for the 2027 version?

“I gained’t guess in opposition to Geoff,” O’Dell stated. “I don’t understand how he’s going to do it, however I do know he’ll.”

To listen to what different Rolliefest attendees needed to say about this 12 months’s occasion and probably the most memorable watches they noticed there, try our roundup of quotes beneath:

James Lamdin, founder & vp of classic & pre-owned, Analog:Shift

What was probably the most memorable factor you noticed? “Seeing absolutely the scrum of affection for the pile of watches laid out at lunch on the World Commerce Heart. The setting, the sheer quantity of fascinating watches that went far past simply Rolex or the same old suspects. It was very spectacular. And no one needed to sit down and eat. All people simply needed to crowd the desk.”

Mike Nouveau, classic supplier, unofficial king of WatchTok

What was probably the most memorable factor you noticed? “Andrea Parmigiani’s cloisonne enamel Rolex. There are solely 10 of them on the earth. It’s a particularly uncommon Rolex from the early ‘50s. It’s possibly a million-dollar watch. I noticed like 5 completely different Mil-Subs, which had been cool. God, I noticed a lot stuff. It’s exhausting to even bear in mind. You get desensitized. I am going to an occasion, I hope there’s like one watch I can shoot. This was like, ‘Oh, simply the Paul Newman Daytona?’ Yeah, sorry. That’s not going to chop it.”

Did you promote stuff right here? “I really did promote—a women Datejust with a blue Stella dial that I offered to a supplier at this time. Proper off the desk.”

What are you sporting? “I’m sporting a 1948 Patek 96 with Arabic numerals on a gold bracelet. The watch was in all probability offered by Tiffany. And it’s a made-in-New York Tiffany bracelet.”

Erika Ratini, aka @WatchMissGMT

What was your tackle the occasion? “I’ve actually by no means been to a different watch occasion of its caliber. I may speak all day about how wonderful the Temple of Dendur or the statement deck at One World Commerce had been, however what actually made this occasion so particular was the wonderful individuals who attended. Everybody there was so heat, welcoming and wanting to share their ardour for watches. I received to see so many uncommon and distinctive watches that I’ve by no means had the chance to get so shut with to find out about.”

What’s probably the most memorable factor you noticed or heard? “What is going to actually keep on with me was standing on the 102nd flooring observatory of One World Commerce, watching a 30-foot-long desk stuffed entrance to again with a few of the most original classic watches I’ve ever gotten to deal with.”

Fred Savage, founder, Timepiece Grading Specialists

What was probably the most memorable factor you noticed? “Mike Nouveau had a Futurematic by Jaeger-LeCoultre, which has been one of many watches I’ve coveted for a very long time. I’ve solely seen one or two in individual earlier than. There was a desk stuffed with spectacular watches, however personally, I favored that Futurematic. It’s a spherical watch. And it’s received a day/night time indicator and an influence reserve indicator and these two small little circles on the dial. It’s actually distinct trying.”

Why was it necessary so that you can be right here? “To not get too poetic about it, however actually, the folks, the group. It’s actually a room of my favourite folks. And folks that I not simply know via watches, however who’ve deeply enriched my life in actually necessary methods.”

Grady Seale, collector from the San Francisco Bay Space

Why was it necessary so that you can be right here? “I actually take pleasure in connecting with individuals who have a deep ardour for watches. And this occasion tends to carry collectively a bunch of people that know an unbelievable quantity about watches and the historical past, the craft, all kinds of issues. It’s humorous as a result of it’s named Rolliefest, however it’s very a lot not Rolex particular.”

Kevin O’Dell, collector and dealer from the Washington, D.C. space

This was your third Rolliefest—what was your takeaway? “For my part, there was an enormous bounce from the primary Rolliefest to the one in ’23. The one in ’23 was epic. I felt guilt being there with out my spouse. The primary one felt actually nerdy, however the second was fancy and enjoyable.

“From 2019 to 2023, Geoff actually took it up a notch. I assumed, ‘Man, you’re actually setting the bar so excessive. There’s no approach he’s going to do higher than 2023.’ However then I used to be stunned he actually did outdo himself. The Met, the candles, One World Commerce. It was simply epic.”

What was the good factor you noticed? “So far as watches go, one watch I noticed was for certain my favourite watch of the entire thing. I used to be conscious of it however hadn’t seen it in individual. A buddy of mine, Mitch from Connecticut, he purchased a Cartier Tank Louis London from the ’70s. (I’ve been gathering Cartier since 2016.) This one shouldn’t be actually in regards to the mannequin however the truth that this instance is so trustworthy. All authentic, by no means been polished. It has a extremely cool customized engraving on the again. It’s in such trustworthy situation—it even has the unique strap. That watch was made earlier than I used to be born. I put it on my wrist, and I needed to purchase it however in fact it’s not on the market. Mitch texted me that my Tank Normale was his favourite watch of the present and I stated the identical factor about his Tank Louis.”

Jason Gong, founder, Complecto

It’s your first Rolliefest—what’s your chief impression? “Being in New York, as large as a metropolis as it’s, should you’re within the watch world, it tends to really feel actually small. So that you’re used to seeing quite a lot of the identical folks. However that is actually one of many first occasions that I’ve been to the place I didn’t know most people within the room. So simply having the chance to fulfill and join with of us from everywhere in the world has been a deal with.”

What’s the good factor you noticed right here? “I noticed quite a lot of cool issues. The place do I even begin? I noticed a Vianney Halter that was in a mode that I’ve by no means seen earlier than. Skeletonized resonance motion. It had a sapphire window on the facet of the case so you’ll be able to see the resonance in movement. That was considered one of various actually excellent items. Issues that I by no means anticipated.”

What are you sporting? “A De Bethune DV27. It’s the model two. With the salmon dial. So it’s a comparatively uncommon fowl. I feel I’m the one individual right here sporting a De Bethune. I didn’t even see any on the desk, which was type of fascinating. I assumed I might need seen like a pair right here and there, however there’s positively an aesthetic among the many crowd. Final night time, I noticed extra Langes and Journes than I did Rolex. Which is humorous. However that’s consistent with what Geoff could be very express about: All watches are welcome. Simply actually funky instrument watches and types I’d by no means even heard of earlier than. References I didn’t know existed. And I’m certain not all of them are million-dollar watches. Nevertheless it displays the breadth of individuals’s tastes and journeys as collectors.”

John Reardon, founder, Collectability

What’s the very best story you’ve heard right here? “An awesome story belongs to Grady Seale. It’s about his seven-year-old daughter discovering a Patek Ellipse in a park and having the ability to return it to the unique proprietor’s household after an eight-year hunt. It’s probably the most lovely Patek Philippe tales I’ve ever heard.”

Paul E., collector from Colorado

What are you sporting? “This was a watch that was gifted to a household in Italy, a well-known composer’s household. His title was Giuseppe Verdi. It was within the household from round 1939 till the current. And it was dropped at market by one other member of the household. The person who received it contacted me. They knew my tastes. So I ended up shopping for it very early this previous 12 months. It’s considered one of solely seven on the earth recognized in metal. And the factor that makes it distinctive is it’s additionally unrestored. The opposite six have had some stage of restoration achieved. And it’s exhausting to see with my eyes, however it says ‘Eberhard Milan’ on the dial, which was a retailer on the time in Italy. The bottom of it’s fascinating, too, as a result of it’s received an inscription from the royal household. The idea is that it was gifted by King Umberto, one of many final kings of Italy, to that household, and stayed within the household’s possession for that entire time. So it’s received the mix of rarity, situation from the standpoint of by no means being restored, and the provenance that, to me, makes it actually a really fascinating watch.”

Phil Toledano, co-founder, Toledano & Chan

What are your impressions of the occasion? “It’s my second Rolliefest. The primary one was karma. This one is far more unhinged. I wasn’t even eager about shopping for issues. I imply, there are issues which can be tremendous fascinating to me. However I even have tremendous bizarre style. It’s very uncommon that I see one thing and suppose, ‘Oh, I’ve to have that.’ I nearly have to seek out it by myself.”

What are you sporting? “I’m sporting an early Sixties Rolex 6234. I by no means thought I’d personal this watch. I purchased it final 12 months at public sale. It was at all times a dream, and I by no means thought it might occur.”

Ted Friedland, collector from Omaha, Neb.

What are you sporting? “It is a Roger Smith piece that I waited seven years to amass. I met Roger on the tenth anniversary of Hodinkee, in 2018. I requested him how a man from Omaha, Nebraska, may purchase considered one of his watches. He instructed me to e mail his spouse. So I emailed Caroline, and I used to be grateful to be placed on their record. I might verify in periodically a few instances a 12 months to allow them to know that I used to be nonetheless respiration and , ready to seek out out after I can be placed on their manufacturing record. After which, lo and behold, I received the notification that I used to be on the brink of be put into manufacturing and received to do a Zoom name with Roger in early 2023. And I picked it up in mid-2024. It’s white gold Sequence One, time solely. I needed to stay true to Roger’s aesthetic, however I needed to have my very own little tackle it, so I had him do the Roman numerals at 3, 9 and 12.

“He’s a real gentleman. I went out for the inaugural British Watchmakers Day. And I knew that my watch was nearing completion. And Roger was one of many founders of the British Watchmakers Day. (I used to be really there earlier this 12 months for 12 months two.) However after I went final 12 months, I stated, ‘I do know my watch is nearing completion. I’d love to fulfill Caroline, and I’d like to see your workshop.’ And so I flew out to the Isle of Man for the day, and he picked me up, and we had lunch, after which he took me again to his workshop and his house adjoining to it. And I received to fulfill his spouse, and I received to see the place George Daniels labored. It’s identical to a time capsule. He’s received all of his gear and all of his documentation and paperwork, and it was fairly spectacular.”

How would you describe your gathering philosophy? “From A. Lange & Söhne to Zenith and every little thing in between. I began gathering in all probability 22, 23 years in the past. I’m born and raised in Omaha. My father was a collector of many issues. He was mates with the homeowners of [local retailer] Borsheims. It’s now owned by Berkshire Hathaway and Warren Buffett, however the Friedman household that owned it had been a buddy of my household’s. And after I was a baby, I’ve reminiscences of taking place to their retailer on sixteenth Road with my father and him sitting down with Ike, the proprietor, and watches, and being with my father when he acquired items.

“Once I turned 13, for my Bar Mitzvah, he received me my first chronograph, this quartz Bertolucci that I nonetheless have. On the finish of their manufacturing, they had been fairly horrific-looking watches. Nevertheless it was my first actual watch. Once I turned 16, I received this IWC chronograph and caught the bug.”