The skies are grey, there’s a comfortable drizzle, and the very first thing we discover as we stroll into Vienna’s Volksgarten park is that the rose bushes—all 3,000 of them—are coated in burlap. In hotter months, they’re a Technicolor dream that perfumes the air, however in February, they’re bundled up for heat. The rows of bushes that line the walkways are additionally naked and pruned again, and the effervescent fountains are turned off.
“The unhealthy information is that the bushes are bare. The excellent news is that you may see by way of them!” says our information with amusing as he leads our umbrella-laden group by way of the rows of hedges to the Theseus Temple, an early-Nineteenth-century construction designed to appear to be a small Greek temple, which homes artwork displays and the place shade seekers collect in busy months. However on this present day, the temple and its environment have been blissfully quiet.
Welcome to winter on the Danube River.
In February, I joined the primary crusing of the 12 months on AmaWaterways’ 196-passenger AmaMagna. As soon as accessible virtually completely throughout the summer season months, river cruises at the moment are seeing their crusing seasons stretch from spring by way of fall and into the ultimate weeks of the 12 months with Christmas Market cruises. This 12 months, for the primary time, Viking River Cruises and AmaWaterways provided February sailings on the Danube River, testing the waters with winter departures that aren’t linked to Europe’s in style festive season (AmaWaterways’ Danube season will begin on February 8 in 2026, and Viking’s will begin on March 12 subsequent 12 months). Each strains tried comparable late-winter cruises on Europe’s castle-laden Rhine River final 12 months.
The Danube River winds by way of stunning cities, together with Budapest, Hungary, which are blissfully devoid of vacationer throngs within the quieter months.
Petr Pohudka/Shutterstock
Winter cruises are a part of a development rising throughout the cruise business to develop low season cruises, on oceans and rivers, in response to port overcrowding throughout peak season and shifts in climate patterns resulting from world warming. French cruise line Ponant this 12 months started providing a frosty sailing in January along Canada’s icy St. Lawrence River to indicate off snow-blanketed woods as an alternative of bushes decked out in fall colours. Windstar is now sailing Mediterranean itineraries in wintertime, cruising out of Barcelona, Venice, Athens, and Rome to ports that in the summertime appeal to solar worshippers who flock to well-known seaside scenes akin to St. Tropez and Mykonos.
Then there was my February crusing on the Danube with AmaWaterways, which offered the identical shore excursions—akin to bike rides and hikes—provided in June and July. This could have been unheard of some years in the past. I signed up for the winter biking rides, partly to get a fuller sense of what’s gained and what’s misplaced within the offseason and who these journeys serve properly.
We’ve seemingly all had experiences that gave low season journey a foul identify. A long time in the past, a tour operator despatched me to Milford Sound in New Zealand throughout the Southern Hemisphere winter, when practically all the companies have been shuttered, and snow flurries have been falling. Throughout the remainder of the 12 months, the primary avenue pulses with exercise as nature lovers flock to see the close by glacier and set off on hikes and backpacking adventures, however once I confirmed up, it was lifeless, with literal padlocks on doorways on the town.
Price range-friendly guidebooks have lengthy touted the frugal pleasures of saving cash on airfare and lodges within the offseason, however the roped-off climbing path I had hoped to discover that day solid an extended shadow over this extra intrepid and cost-conscious model of journey.
Windstar Cruises’ all-suite, 312-passenger Star Legend (pictured) is now bringing friends to Mediterranean locations akin to Good, France, throughout the winter.
Courtesy of Winstar Cruises
Nevertheless, as in style cruise ports have suffered from an increase in overtourism lately—particularly post-pandemic, because the variety of vacationers has risen steeply resulting from pent-up demand—all of the sudden the offseason is looking much more attractive.
If you happen to’ve ever tried to see the Mona Lisa on the Louvre throughout the summer season, standing shoulder to shoulder with vacationers from around the globe in a gallery choked with individuals, you realize what it feels prefer to be one crammed into small areas with 1000’s of different guests. Think about that stage of crowding all through a city’s total vacationer district, and also you’ll perceive why it’s not pleasing to trip in in style locations throughout the peak season of summer season. You may anticipate multi-hour strains for all types of actions and venues, and good luck getting last-minute bookings for in style museums and eating places. It’s disagreeable for guests and makes it inconceivable for locals to go about their days as regular.
Consequently, some ports have put per-diem caps on cruise ship guests (Santorini and Norway, for instance), and different locations—from Good and Venice to Belfast, Maine—have made headlines for trying to ban cruise ships, particularly the bigger ones, from docking of their ports. Others, akin to Iceland, have enacted per-day entrance charges on cruisers to encourage the strains to go elsewhere.
As an avid seaside lover, I assumed visiting Mykonos or Santorini within the low season months, docking alongside these islands when bathing-suit climate can be a distant dream, appeared a bit unhappy. However Windstar’s winter Mediterranean sailings eschew these beach-driven ports in favor of others—like Rome, Naples, and Croatia’s Dubrovnik—the place the main focus is on historical past and tradition, connecting vacationers with museums and palaces that provide extra elbow room in winter. Windstar affectionately calls it “locals season” as a result of there are far fewer vacationers on the town.
French cruise line Ponant is for the primary time bringing passengers to Canada’s St. Lawrence River in winter after they can take pleasure in snow-filled actions like dogsledding.
?PONANT/Julien Fabro Julien Fabro
Local weather change has additionally contributed to the potential for these sailings, as some locations expertise much less extreme winters. In a long time previous, visits to locations like Budapest, with its sprawling ice-skating rink, and Salzburg in Austria, the place snow would cap not simply the distant Alps but additionally the native streets, provided winter wonderland scenes that have been beautiful sights at first, however the chilly typically rendered full days of sightseeing difficult and soggy.
On my Danube cruise in February, not like in Milford Sound, I didn’t miss any points of interest because of the season, and we skilled delicate temperatures (the thermometer hovered across the 40s and 50s throughout the day). When there was precipitation, it arrived within the type of mild rain as an alternative of snowstorms (after all, that is variable from one 12 months to the following and even sooner or later to a different). Bratislava was 58 levels and sun-drenched after we arrived.
The touring world has, blissfully, not fairly caught on to the truth of winter in some locations: Whereas climate is at all times a raffle, it’s not at all times abysmal in winter, relying on the place you go. And the city squares within the charming European cities we visited have been practically empty. In Dürnstein, Austria, the place passengers stopped earlier than a tour of Melk Abbey, the ship known as forward to ask shopkeepers to open so the city wouldn’t really feel shuttered to cruise passengers. Right here, in probably the most visited spots within the Wachau Valley throughout the summer season, the doorways swung open to welcome us and us alone.
We’re more likely to see a gradual improve in these low season itineraries, and ultimately the key will get out. Now’s your probability to nonetheless be among the many first wave of passengers having fun with the relative solitude of crusing throughout much less typical instances of the 12 months.